By Utah02January 4, I have written in on this before so I apologize if you're seeing it again but I am truly stumped and this has turned into an issue far beyond what I could have imagined. Last time I wrote I wasn't extremely detailed which left a lot of overlapping troubleshooting and confusion so I am also going to be very extensive on my detail with this so we all know what I own, what the problem is, and what I've tried to fix it. I purchased the car with this issue as well. The car runs pretty well with the occasional misfire and will accelerate well.
Though under WOT I can accelerate hard up to roughly rpms then it just cuts all power. I can feel an immediate hesitation and a sort of popping rumbling sound and the car will just sit right around rpms and wont go above. This is in every gear as well. It only happens in gear too, If i am in neutral it will rev higher than If I back off the accelerator just a smidge it can accelerate passed rpms so this only happens when I am at full throttle.
It also has Pertonix ignition with a normal distributor rotor and cap. Here is a long list of things I have tried and nothing has worked. This is in order as well.
All parts came off a running and I am positive work. Some of these things I know were far fetched but I was at a point of desperation and was just hoping they might work. There are even things I have probably forgotten that I did.
I've spent multiple entire days to fixing it and been in the garage for 12 hours at a time. Now I am not the smartest when it comes to everything but I know enough to do what I did so I might have questions when you suggest things. If you have any further questions I can do my best to answer.
Help is really needed here and I thank everyone in advance for taking the time to help me. And again I'm sorry for writing in again just need the help. Here is a link to a video I filmed of what exactly the car does when it bogs. I would have said that your fuel pickup screen is clogged.
That's the first symptom Fuel issue seems most likely to me too. I haven't checked my fuel lines thoroughly but when I had the carpet rupees out I inspected them quickly and they looked fine.
I would also delete one of the fuel filters. I know you can buy these rotors in various rev limiting types One other thing to checkWhat's New? Log in. Remember Me?Laboratory planning and design
Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Well, as unbelievable as it may seem, after having the car '82 GT with a 4bbl Holley for almost a month, I just revved the engine above RPM today. I was sitting in the garage with the car running thinking over my exhaust problem and decided to rev the engine up near the redline to see how it handled it. As it reaches about RPM it starts to stumble and fluctuate and wont rev any higher. What's the problem? I assume its either an ignition or fuel problem but not the exact source.
The only info that I know is true about the ignition and fuel systems is that I just changed out the wires and plugs with new stock replacement and gapped them to the spec in the Hayes manual. Previous owner installed an Accell 50K volt coil.
And then theres the cfm 4bbl carb. Thats all that I know is changed. Sounds like your hitting the rev limiter to me? This was sitting in neutral in my garage.
I didn't think there was a rev limiter back then since its a carb with no computer. And if there was one it certainly wouldnt be at 3K because an old Motor Trend article on the car lists max hp at 4. XK RPM. I'm gonna take it around the block tomorrow and rev it up while driving and see when happens. Originally Posted by critterkillerI just got my Hyundai Sonata just half a year ago and it ran fine until last week.
Q: Car won't accelerate past 3000rpm
It just turned off in the middle of a stop light, when i turned it back on the car would not go over rpm. If i step on the gas pedal more it would just rev and jerk. I got back home and let it sit over the night, the next morning it was fine.
For about a week all was well until today. The car also jerks violently right before stopping. Does anyone know what could be going on here? The car has miles on it. This can be a headache problem because its definitely caused by a sensor. First thing to check is if you have a check engine light on. If not then you have to start eliminating possibilities of what sensors it could be.
If your car has an air flow meter, it could be that, it could be a cooling temperature sensor the one for the ECUit could also be a knock sensor which will put the car in limp mode which is why the car wont let you go past 3k rpms because the knock sensor is designed to save the motor from blowing if it detects knock at all. Could need a tune up also, new spark plugs, wires, coil If its the transmission wouldn't the car still rev?
Because have this same problem with no cel on. I changed the map sensor and my car don't have a maf sensor and fuel filter non service able and its still doing it.
Struggles most going uphill. I have an 01 tl. Even when car is in park I can't rev it pass 3k. And it sounds like its sucking more air than it has to. Air filter also clean. You either have a clogged fuel filter,are water in the fuel. You can pull the fuel filter ,then poor the gas into a glass jar to see if you see any water in it,If there is you can add a bottle of alcohol in to the fuel tankyou can also find a water remover at any auto parts store,there's one that's called HEET it works good.
I have a hyundai sonata and had this problem.I've recently got the car running it had been sitting for 8 years and I've got it running I can move it but very little. As I accelerate the car starts to reach rpm and dies out.
Ive tried to figure it out why but I can't seem to. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It sometimes struggles to stay on it sounds like it's going to die out then it goes back up.
If you have access to a scanning tool, it would be helpful to download any data that may have registered as a result of the way it is running. You should see a Check Engine Light on as well, which would be an indicator that there will be some trouble codes to download. I would suggest having an expert diagnose your Check Engine Light and recommend the best path to repair.
Q: Car won't accelerate past rpm asked by Anthony. My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. Jeff Engstrom Automotive Mechanic. Thank Jeff. This issue could be caused by a variety of things. I would suggest by checking to be sure that the idle air control module is working properly.Consonant digraphs
Also, check to be sure that the throttle body is delivering fuel as it should. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that.
Car will not accelerate stays between 1500 to 2000 RPM 2007 Sonata V6. Goes at snail pace.
Why wasn't this information helpful? Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details. Related Questions. Error codes P and P by Pawan U. Key, ignition and transmission issues, shifters by Brian S. I just replaced my throttle body on my mini cooper but it seems to not take off like before.
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Year I don't know. What others are asking Sometimes my car has a rough idle and even stalls - Chevrolet Tahoe Hello. From my experience with this engine, the issue is usually due to the fact that the throttle body plate is worn out in the bore, or, more commonly, it is caused by an issue with the intake manifold gasketCar idles but when pedal is depressed engine does not rev.
When in drive or reverse car moves very slowly with pedal to the floor.Vepr hunter tarkov modding
It happened 2 weeks ago but cleared up when I repeatedly turned the engine on and off. However today I am not so lucky. Reelin68 answered 5 years ago. There was a recall involving your year Sonata: There is a recall concerning the esc light coming on due to the faulty brake switch, which can also affect the transmission, which would cause it not to accelerate. Belinda answered 2 years ago. If you made any repairs to the vehicle try resetting the computer by disconnecting the battery waiting for a bit say 15 minutes and reconnect see if that helps.
Scott answered 11 months ago. I had this issue. Firestone was aware by signs, it was fixed. Cars Hyundai SonataIssue 1: Brake light stays on, even when car is off. Issue 2: when accelerating at times, you will have a sudden loss of acceleration when pushing pedal. If you let up it may resume like normal but it trips the safety as if you are pushing the break and acceleration at the same time, disabling acceleration by computer.
Issue 3: Cruise control will not be able to be engaged after first throttle error. Simple fix at auto places. Its the rubber gasket they replace, and were aware of it. Frederick answered about a week ago. The first car I ever rented was a brand-new only about 50 miles on the digital odometer Hyundai Sonata.
Now, granted, it was clearly a "lemon" its front-end alignment was waaaayyyy off, and it was extremely sluggish, especially at first The slow performance and fuel-guzzling did eventually improve somewhat after the car was driven a while, but it was still very unsatisfactory, and it was a minor nightmare to drive in higher-speed traffic, since I was always fearful that I could not pass or merge safely. It happened 2 weeks ago but cleared up when I repeatedly turned the e My Son's Hyundai Sonata V6 just stopped accelerating.
If you push the gas to the floor whether in park, reverse, neutral and drive it tops out around rpm. He had to creep it down backstreet Car will not accelerate past RPM for more then a few seconds a d then dies out. Stopped to get gas and turned the engine off. All lights turn on, you can hear the starter engage ans the engine turn over and the battery is good. Replaced the starter about 2 years ago.
Content will be removed if CarGurus becomes aware that it violates our policies. Goes at snail pace. Report Follow. Mark helpful. Your Answer:. Upload Photo Photo optional.It runs great under that though. I am also having an issue getting it to start sometimes. The reving issue I have no clue what it could be. However for the starting issue I know its not the starter. I would look for dirty throttle body or mass airflow sensor. Another possibility could be a going-to-die catalytic converter. Either a fuel delivery problem or a restricted exhaust would be my guess if all the required maintenance is up-to-date spark plugs, air filter, etc.
I will will have to look at the throttle body and when it comes to the mass airflow sensor mechanics keep telling me it doesnt have one. My converter is bad however just havent had it fixed yet, Could the be the issue? When is comes down to my spark plugs and air fliter they are brand new.
Yes a dying catalytic converter can cause rpm problems. The faster you go, the more air your engine needs, your rpm go up, but a blockage can prevent new air from being drawn in as fast as it needs to.
At that point the engine will cease to accelerate or slow down, that is reflected in the rpms. It could also explain the large number of error codes you are getting.
Ok, If I just have a pipe put in with all of my issues go away do you think? Also I noticed today that my e-brake like keeps coming on and off. I have no idea it solves your problem, but if you already suspect your converter to be bad then I would concentrate on that.
I would recommend you have the converter tested. If you are in the USA you will have to replace it regardless or you may fail emission testing. The converter is more than just a pipe.
Btw, what do you mean E-brake light? Does your car have separate dashboard lights for E-brake and regular brakes? That could be the cause of the no-start too. As mentioned above, the defective cat could also be partially clogging the exhaust system, which could limit the rpms too.
Shops can sometimes temporarily bypass the cat as a test to see how much the cat is a part of this symptom. Cats can fail to perform their emissions task yet still not be clogging the exhaust system. I was just wondering whether this car has a separate E-brake warning light? If not why would he refer to the brake warning light as E-brake? If the brake warning light comes on, I would highly recommend to find the shortest route to a mechanic. I ment the light on the dash that comes on when my e break is on.
The notification light. If the exhaust flow is restricted, yes. There are different types of failure. P suggests the timing belt is off but if the cam sensor is failing this fault may be invalid. Was the timing belt replaced recently? The blinking brake light is because of a low brake fluid level in the reservoir, refill and inspect the brakes.
There is no mass air flow sensor on a Neon. The red light on my dash was simple and I fixed that issue. I am having my converter replaced on tuesday. So hopefully all that will be fixed.Two things can happen — the vehicle does not accelerate at all or as fast as it should be. You can pin down the problem on several causes and some can be complex enough to earn a visit to the mechanic.
Regular maintenance is the key to minimizing the chance of various issues. However, sometimes it becomes old enough to stay out of troubles. In fact, the high-mileage vehicles could also have this acceleration problem.
You should diagnose the symptoms and take action accordingly. It could be a worn out clutch pedal or the clutch fluid. The fluid should not go below the minimum level or cross the maximum level. If it seems loose or the engine changes speed without accelerating or decelerating, the clutch is definitely the origin of the problem. For example, a pollution error could trick the computer system to think that the car has been producing excessive fume.
In response, it will make the engine to lose power slowly, which gradually leads to trouble with acceleration. You have to go to a car servicing to find out what is wrong with it. The fuel can collect sludge over time that often comes from the fuel tank. Dirt makes the fuel heavy, making it unable to move freely from the tank to the engine.Your car will not rev past 3000 rpm
Proper lubrication is vital in making the acceleration highly responsive. You have to clean the filter or replace it with a new one to solve this issue. A worn out or damaged timing belt will affect the acceleration. But, a newly replaced belt could also be the culprit.
Why does this happen? Choose a professional mechanic to do the replacement because the improper installation will result in worse acceleration than before.
They transport fuel and air from and to the engine and different supply points and connectors. Imagine you are driving your car and find out that it is losing power when you accelerate. What are the reasons behind this? Well, there are only 2 reasons responsible for this.
Either your car is running out of fuel or it does not have enough power. And there are lots of causes behind your car losing the POWER especially when accelerating, some of them are:. But if you are experiencing any of acceleration issues, you should not ignore it. The longer you try to ignore them, the more accidents are increased.Orio tv
They tend to concentrate on one probable source of the trouble whereas paying no attention to what is the cause at hand. That will develop other trouble to surface in the future. A professional auto service centre is going to have skilled mechanics and equipments to inspect and fix the problems of your car. The repair may not cost you too much at all.Datatable bootstrap lengthmenu
You want to make sure that you can get the right speed everytime you speed up or slow down. Tsukasa Azuma is an awesome car blogger of Car From Japan.
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